We had an early morning as we set out for the journey from the Lowlands to the Highlands of Scotland on our way to the city of Oban. From there we cross by ferry to the Isle of Mull. This we will do by motor coach but then we will take a person only ferry to Iona as the island is so small it limits the number of vehicles allowed on the island. For the last several days, our guide Bill and driver Robert have encouraged us to pray for good weather today so our crossings will be easy. We awoke to rain but as we left the Lowlands, we could see that the moors were still ringed in mist but beyond there was the promise of blue sky. Not being one who takes much to the idea that prayers for weather carry much power, I will simply hold the thought that we are very blessed for the day we’ve been given while remembering that everywhere we go people tell us that ‘the weather in Scotland can change in an instant’. As people of Minnesota, we understand.
In a book several of us have read in preparation for this journey, The Mist-Filled Path: Celtic Wisdom for Exiles, Wanderers & Seekers, author Frank MacEowen writes: ‘Mist is beautiful natural power. This old spirit is an ambassador of the in-between. Not entirely water, not entirely air. The mist is a unique dancing marriage of the two elements. In effect, it is a shape-shifting element.’ The experience of moving from Lowlands to Highlands, shrouded in the mist was a wonderful reminder that, as pilgrims, we are in an in-between place. We have left the vibrancy of the city and are going to a place of solitude, simplicity and prayer.
On our crossing from Oban to the isle of Mull, the seas were a bit choppy and the rain picked up. But what a sight we received as our reward. First one rainbow appeared from the shore reaching heavenward toward the heather covered hills. Then as we left the ferry, an enormous, brilliant rainbow arced as if it was born from the water and returned to the water. And then before our very eyes, it doubled itself. To be blessed by a double rainbow. What a gift!
Leaving Mull, we marveled at our coach driver’s ability to maneuver the single lane roads, pulling over to share the road with other cars and coaches. There a few seat gripping experiences as we zoomed through rain and wind, fogging the windows of the coach with our breath. But by the time we completed our hour’s drive, the rain had stopped, the sun had come out and the skies had turned a brilliant blue. The crossing by ferry was short and a ‘wee bit’ rocky to quote those we have met in our days here.
As we stood on the shores of this tiny island, where history claims the beginning of Christianity in Scotland began, was amazing. We gathered at the end of the jetty where our boat had delivered us safe and sound. Like so many pilgrims throughout the centuries, we felt blessed to be on dry, safe ground after days on the road. Unlike the majority of those first pilgrims, we had ridden in privilege and relative safety. I pray this truth was not lost on any of us. But nonetheless we felt relief and anticipation of what our journey will be here. We sang and honored our arrival with these words of John O’Donohue: ” In the out-of-the way places of the heart, Where your thoughts never think to wander, This beginning has been quietly forming, Waiting until you were ready to emerge.”
Indeed, the emerging of what this ancient holy place has to offer each of us is yet to emerge. May the Holy One keep us open,listening and present to the path as it unfolds.
*****Many of you have mentioned that you would like to see pictures of your friends and loved ones who have made this pilgrimage. I’ve included some today. Enjoy!